Restaurants: Fraiche, Fairfield, CT

UPDATE: Please note that as of April 2009, Fraiche Restaurant is closed.

The Fairfield restaurant scene has always been reliably good, if not always exciting. However, in recent years, several newer restaurants have received quite a bit of attention. Many of these buzz-worthy eateries were almost destined to succeed. Hotspots like Pepe’s Pizza, Barcelona, and The Beach Café already cracked the code to success in other Connecticut towns before hitting Fairfield. Other newcomers including Osianna and Café 4 Quattro became instantly popular thanks to the huge following developed by their winning sister restaurant, Quattro Pazzi.

Fraiche (pronounced “fresh”), is the newest eatery sure to become a new favorite among Fairfielders. While the modern, American restaurant is the first solo-venture for Chef Marc Lippman, it definitely has the recipe for success: great location, fantastic ambiance, an exciting menu, and an experienced chef.

Located at 75 Hillside Road in Greenfield Hill (the former site of La Colline Verte ), Fraiche is dressed to impress. Brooklyn-based design firm, John Loecke Inc., completely transformed the space In order to give an “urban farmhouse” feel to the interior. Rustic furniture and modern accents adorn the two dining rooms, which feature stone walls and birch-patterned wall coverings. The tables, which were handmade in the Catskill Mountains, are created from reclaimed barn wood, and farmhouse-inspired wire chandeliers line the ceiling. The chocolate brown and smoky blue palate give the entire space an updated, contemporary feel, and create a cozy setting in which to sample Lippman’s modern-American fare.

The menu is described as “market driven”, and therefore will change seasonally. To coincide with the opening, Lippman has designed an eclectic, fall-themed menu with signature dishes like Fresh Maine Scallops with Black Truffles and Sunchoke Puree, and Free-Range Axis Venison Loin with Quince Jam and Butternut Squash-Brussels Sprout Hash with Smoked Bacon. If that sounds too fancy for you, have no fear….the menu also includes a 100% Kobe Beef Cheeseburger with Fries, Heirloom Chicken with Potatoes and Roasted Root Vegetables, and a Prime New York Strip Steak with Mashed Potatoes as well. “I really wanted to balance out ‘casual-elegance’,” states Lippman. He adds that his hope is that Fraiche becomes a true “neighborhood restaurant” where people can simply drop in for a burger with their kids (there will be a children’s menu too), but will also want to return for that special occasion meal.

Lippman’s culinary career has taken him all over the world. After graduating from La Varenne Ecole De Cuisine in France, he worked at top restaurants in Paris, New York and Miami. Later, after serving nearly three years as the as Executive Chef at one of Mexico’s most luxurious five-star resorts, Lippman’s wife and PR manager, Karen, gave birth to their first child. This prompted a move back to the States, and after landing the position of Executive Chef at the popular seafood restaurant, Ocean Drive, in South Norwalk, Lippman and his family decided to settle in Connecticut.

Four years and another child later, Lippman decided it was time to break out on his own. “It was really a family-motivated decision,” he states. Wanting to be closer to home in order to spend more quality time with his wife and children, he searched for the perfect space for over a year. “I was looking mainly in the Fairfield/Westport area, and when I came upon this location, I really could see beyond the space,” he states. “It was definitely the best location for me.”

As Fairfield becomes more of an eating-destination than ever before, Fraiche is a welcome addition to the many new and exciting restaurants to open their doors this year. Early indications are that Marc Lippman’s inspired, seasonal menu will entice Fairfielders back again and again.

Fraiche is located at 75 Hillside Road in Fairfield and is open for dinner only, beginning at 5:30pm, Tuesday-Saturday. Appetizers range from $9 - $18, entrees from $16 - $36, and desserts are $9. For reservations, please call 203.256.5744.

Check out the New York Times review of Fraiche, which appeared on February 17, 2008.

Photos courtesy of Fraiche Restaurant.

The Perfect Pantry...and Pasta Dish

When my husband and I first got married, we lived in what I thought was a gem of a one-bedroom New York City apartment. Why was it so special? It had a fully-operational kitchen! It was was a small, galley style arrangement, but had all the requisite appliances, and even a dishwasher. Perhaps "requisite" is not an accurate description; one apartment we went to see had nothing more than a bar-sized sink, a microwave, a mini-fridge, and a two burner stovetop, which was also considered a kitchen in New York real estate terms. I'd been in hotels better equipped to cook a meal!

Needless to say, in those early years, as much as I loved our apartment, I didn't have room for an actual pantry. Not that I needed one, since in a pedestrian city such as New York, you only could shop for as much food as you could carry. There was no "stocking up" when Progresso soup was on sale! When we later moved to a bigger (but still not-so-large) condominium in Connecticut, and had access to super-supermarkets (and a car), I gained a new appreciation for a pantry. I could stock six types of pasta at any time! Beans? I'll take three each of garbonzo, cannellini, AND red kidney! I couldn't go too crazy, since my space was still limited, but I did learn to keep key items on hand.

When we finally bought an actual house, I was disappointed to find that the pantry in my new abode was not much larger than what I had in my condo. What's a cook to do? I did what any food-obsessed person would do...I converted my coat closet (which happened to be adjacent to the kitchen) into a large, glorious pantry! I bought wire baker's racks, hooks, and storage baskets and bins, and then headed right to the store to load up on my favorite pantry items. I wanted to keep back-ups of necessary items (olive oil, salt, pepper, vinegar), plus enough other dried/unperishable goods to whip up something delicious at a moment's notice. And don't forget, your refrigerator and freezer are definitely an extension of your dry pantry.

If you are among the fortunate who have a pantry (or are willing to forgo a coat closet), here is a list of what I try to keep in my pantry at all times:

Dry pantry: pasta (a variety of shapes/sizes), rice, cous cous, canned beans (a variety of types), tomato paste/canned diced tomatoes, sundried tomatoes, marinated artichokes, dried fruit (raisins, dried cranberries), olive oil/canola oil/vegetable oil, vinegar (balsamic, red wine, white and specialty flavors), onions, garlic, dried herbs/spices (especially rosemary, oregano, red pepper flakes, cinnamon, cumin, and nutmeg)

Refrigerator: milk, eggs, butter, cheese (cheddar, parmesan, and feta), nuts (pine nuts, walnuts, almonds), mustard (dijon), ketchup, mayo, fresh parsley, lemon

Freezer: peas, spinach, frozen garlic, pancetta/bacon, bread

Pantry Pasta with Artichokes

Serves 4

This dish is reminiscent of "pasta carbonara", but adds artichokes in place of pancetta. With a well-stocked pantry, you won't even need to make a trip to the market!

1 onion, chopped

1 - 12 oz jar marinated artichokes, drained and roughly chopped

2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 eggs
Parmesan cheese

Salt and pepper

1 lb fettuccini, cooked according to package directions

1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped

Heat olive oil in a large pan and sauté onions until browned.

Add the chopped artichokes (not the liquid from the jar), salt & pepper and cover.

Cook over low heat for about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, beat the eggs together with about 1-2 T of parmesan cheese and a good pinch of salt.

Toss the hot pasta with the egg mixture until it is thoroughly coated and top with the artichoke mixture. Gently toss to combine.

Serve immediately with additional grated cheese if desired.

The Simplicity of Soup

Nothing is better on a cold winter day than a nice bowl of hot soup. Whether it is from a can (I love Progresso Lentil), a box (Trader Joe's Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato is terrific), or from a packet (okay, maybe skip that one), soup makes the perfect lunch, a great starter at dinnertime, or even a nourishing snack. However, what a lot of people don't realize is just how simple it is to make delicious, homemade soup from scratch. With the help of a few shortcuts, you can whip up a steaming pot of soup in literally minutes.

"Souper Simple Soups" is one of the most popular classes I teach, and with good reason. In under two hours, we make four fantastic soups which are easy to replicate at home. One soup, Tortellini in Brodo with Spinach, is so simple that I almost axed it from the menu in the weeks preceeding the first class. My mother encouraged me to keep it in the line-up (it is one of her favorites), but I was concerned the recipe wasn't substantial enough for a class. Much to my surprise, it turned out to be the hands-down favorite of all my students. Yes, mom, as usual, you were right. ;)

The first time I had Tortellini in Brodo (tortellini in broth) was in Italy. I quickly discovered that this is a staple in nearly every Italian restaurant, akin to our Chicken Noodle. It is exactly what it sounds like; tortellini in broth. Simple. Unadorned. Classicly Italian. To add a bit more nutritional value, I like to add fresh spinach leaves right at the end of cooking, which also gives it fantastic color. You could use fresh parsley or basil instead, but I just love the way the spinach looks and tastes in this dish. The best part is that the entire soup is finished in only the amount of time it takes for the tortellini to cook! So get cooking! Winter is the perfect time for soup!

NOTE: As a special event, I'll be teaching a free, one-hour soups class at Williams-Sonoma in Westport, CT on Sunday, February 17 from 10-11am. Call the store at 221-8667 to register.

Tortellini in Brodo with Spinach

Serves 4

6 cups good quality canned chicken broth

½ lb dried cheese tortellini (or your favorite variety)

6 oz baby spinach, washed
Grated parmesan cheese

Heat broth in a medium saucepan until boiling.

Add tortellini, and cook until tender.

Add spinach, stir to allow it to wilt, and serve with grated parmesan cheese.

Low-Cal Superbowl Party Snacks

I am not a football fan. If I didn't live in Connecticut, midway between the homes of the New York Giants and New England Patriots, I may not even know who was playing in this Sunday's Superbowl. However, liking football is certainly not a prerequisite for hosting or attending a Superbowl party. I'm game for any kind of party that involves food...so flip that coin and count me in!

While normally I'm all over the chips and guac, the Buffalo chicken wings with a side of blue cheese, and the deep-dish pizza, this year I find myself in a bit of a different mind-set. I just don't want to consume 5000 calories in one evening, which is easy to do at a Superbowl party. Funny how as we get older those wings and pizza seem to stay put a little longer than in past years! While I can't expect everyone else to give up those things on this holiest of football days, I am going to put up a good fight and control the munchie mania.

One way to do that is to prepare a big colorful veggie platter, with baby carrots, sweet sugar snap peas, strips of red and yellow bell peppers, and some sliced up jicama. The key is in the dip. Forgo the sour-cream and mayonaise based dips for something lighter like my Herbed Cannellini Dip. It whirrs up in your food processor (or blender) in seconds, can be made in advance, and keeps well for a few days afterward. The best part, is that it is full of protein, very low in fat, and absolutely bursting with flavor.

I also love to serve chilled shrimp as a low-cal option for my guests (it is also a perfect thing to bring to a party--- no one turns away shrimp!). Shrimp is low in fat and cholesterol, and amist the pork-rinds and beer, tends to "class-up" the joint a little. You can certainly serve it with a store-bought cocktail sauce for a classic combination, or try my Cilantro Dipping Sauce, for something just a little different.

So, this Sunday, enjoy the game (if you're watching), enjoy the snacks, and know that you can still have a good time without hating yourself the next morning!

Herbed Cannellini Dip

Makes about 2 cups

2 cans white cannelini beans, drained and rinsed

2 cloves garlic, peeled

¼ cup olive oil

1-2 Tablespoons fresh rosemary OR fresh sage, minced

Zest of 1 lemon (coarsely grated)

Salt and pepper

Put beans and garlic, ground pepper, and a large pinch of salt into food processor and pulse until combined.

Slowly add olive oil while pulsing. Process until smooth.

Add more garlic if preferred.

Transfer puree to a bowl and stir in rosemary or sage, lemon zest, and 1 T of olive oil.

Add additional salt and pepper if necessary.

Use as a dip for grissini, veggies, or as a spread for crostini.

Cilantro Dipping Sauce for Shrimp

Makes about 3/4 cup

1 bunch cilantro, thoroughly washed

2 cloves garlic, peeled

2 Tablespoons lime juice

1/2 teaspoon sugar (or more, if preferred)

Olive oil

Salt/pepper

In a food processor, combine cilantro and garlic and pulse until chopped.

Slowly add olive oil in a drizzle while pulsing to make a pesto.

Add lime juice, sugar, salt and pepper to taste.

Restaurants: Coppia, Fairfield, CT

***Please note that Coppia is now closed.

After driving by it for ages, I finally decided to try Coppia Ristorante, located at 937 Post Road in Fairfield. I'd read a good review and was intrigued, but had never actually met anyone who'd been there. Then, about a month ago when my daughter's play group decided we all needed a "grown-up girls' night out", I suggested we try Coppia, and everyone readily agreed.

Inauspiciously sandwiched between the Midas repair shop and Mo's Wine and Spirits, it is easy to miss. Tucked back in the corner of a small plaza, Coppia seats only about 20 people inside, but with the addition of an outdoor patio (enclosed and heated in winter), it doubles the number they can serve on weekends. Despite the small size, the kitchen certainly turns out big flavored Italian fare.

On my first midweek visit with the gals, we all ordered salads and pasta, and agreed that each of the dishes were excellent. I began with a basic tomato and mozzarella salad, which came drizzled with a richly flavored balsamic glaze. For my entree, I was immediately drawn to the Penne with Sweet Sausage, which comes served in a deliciously authentic tomato sauce enhanced by Gorgonzola cheese. Both were fantastic choices. We also enjoyed a fantastic bottle of wine, a Pinot Noir recommended by the host. The $75 bottle of wine drove up our bill a bit, but it was, overall, reasonably priced for the area.

On a subsequent visit, my husband and I walked in without reservations on a Saturday night. The staff was very accommodating and willing to shift a few things around in order to fit us in. We sat in the enclosed outdoor patio, which although a tad brightly lit, was quite comfortable despite the freezing temperatures outside.

To start, I ordered a mixed green salad with crumbled Gorgonzola, which was very tasty, although a bit on the small side. For my entree, I opted for the Pollo Picatta, which was delicious and lemony, and served in a smooth butter-caper sauce. The dish is typically served with a vegetable and roasted potatoes, but I asked to skip the potatoes and double up on the veggies, a request to which they graciously obliged. Based on my rave reviews, my husband ordered the pasta dish I had on my first visit, and he was equally impressed. For dessert, we split a Chocolate Indulgence Cake, which was basically a lava cake smothered in fudge sauce with freshly whipped cream and sliced strawberries. Indulgent, for sure, but a very nice ending to our meal.

There were lots of things on the menu that I wanted to try, and definitely will go back many times to do so. One appetizer that stood out was "Warm Mozzarella" wrapped in prosciutto, and I always like to try every restaurant's version of calamari. There were several pasta dishes with seafood that sounded very good, as well as several veal dishes, including one of my favorites, "Vitello Sorrento" (veal topped with eggplant and prosciutto) that were beckoning to be ordered. Another visit, another meal. Although I've only visited Coppia twice so far, I'm pretty sure it is going to become one of my local favorites. Instead of driving by again, stop in and check it out soon (but make a reservation first!).

Coppia Ristorante
937 Post Road
Fairfield, CT
203-254-7519
http://www.coppiafairfield.com/

Photo from http://www.coppiafairfield.com/

Restaurants: Wild Rice, Fairfield, CT

It seems as though I'd been watching the renovation at 1612 Post Road in Fairfield forever. The tired building that once housed a chocolate store, an insurance agency, a short-lived tea shop, and an aging "townie" bar, slowly began the process of modernization well over a year ago. The space was gutted and redivided, and the facade got a complete face lift. When a cosmetics store and a trendy men's clothing store opened, I was happy enough, but when I saw the sign announcing that the remaining space would open as "Wild Rice---Sushi and Pan Asian Cuisine"--then I got really excited. Wild Rice opened in October 2007 and has been bustling ever since.

The fun, contemporary vibe of Fairfield's newest Asian eatery starts before one even enters the door. Modern, cylindrical exterior lights are mounted above a wall of floor-to-ceiling plate glass windows, and give passers-by a glimpse into the dimly lit, urban-chic interior. Once inside, guests are greeted by the hostess, who leads the way through the dining room, which features high ceilings and wooden plank walls. A long sushi bar runs down the center of the L-shaped space, with plenty of seating for curious diners.

Upon being seated, a small plate of marinated veggies is placed on the table. It doesn't look particularly appetizing, but he crunchy combination of carrots, cucumber, cabbage, and horseradish (yes, horseradish!) is fabulous. Even my kids liked it. The manager explained that the veggies are marinated in vinegar, sugar and chili peppers, which infuse all the veggies and render them sweet and delicious with a tiny kick. It is definitely a healthier and tastier alternative to the greasy fried noodles and duck sauce typically found in Asian restaurants.

The pan-Asian menu is extensive, but not overwhelming once you figure out the format. The appetizers are divided into five categories: Dim Sum, Sushi, Kitchen Appetizers, Soups, and Salads. Entrees are also divided into sections--sushi and Asian dishes. If you're in the mood for sushi, there are several entrees which feature assorted sushi and sashimi, and come with soup or salad. If you prefer to make your own selections, there is a large "a la carte" menu featuring Classic Rolls, Contempo Rolls, Veggie Rolls, and Sushi/Sashimi.

The rest of the menu is dedicated to other traditional Asian dishes, with category headings like Contempo Dishes, Noodle & Rice Dishes, and South East Asian/Red China Dishes. The Contempo menu includes traditional Chinese favorites like General Tso's Chicken and Mandarin Beef. I always seem to be drawn to the noodle dishes (the pasta lover in me!), and Wild Rice offers plenty of options. A wide variety of noodle and rice dishes may each be ordered alone, or with chicken, pork, beef, shrimp, or vegetables.

The South East Asian/Red China selections allow diners to choose their type of protein (chicken, pork, tofu, shrimp, scallop or calamari), white or brown rice, and one of the many specialty sauces listed to create a personalized Pan-Asian dish. There is definitely something for everyone, from the pickiest eaters, to those more on the adventurous side. All the dishes are served family style and are perfect for sharing. However, if you are like me, and don't like to share food with anyone other than my husband, the bowls in which the food is served are not so embarrassingly big that you'd feel self-conscious.

Although there was plenty on the regular menu that would appeal to kids, there is not an actual children's menu offered. They do have high-chairs, but no booster seats, nor do they offer plastic cups (with or without tops) for the younger diners. Be sure to ask your server if s/he will fashion a kid-friendly set of chopsticks. Your little ones will love trying to master them, even if a few things do end up on the floor.

Wild Rice is a welcome addition to the Post Road in Fairfield, and is a sleek but casual, spot in which to sample a wide variety of pan-Asian dishes. I overheard one diner proclaim, "thank goodness I don't have to go out of town anymore to get a good Pad Thai fix!" Thank goodness is right!

Wild Rice

1612 Post Road Fairfield, CT 06824

(203)255-1688

My favorites: WonTon Soup, Steamed Vegetable Spring Rolls, Sesame Chicken, & Chow Fun Noodles.