Easter Pizza Rustica

There are lots of reasons to look forward to Easter. For Christians, it is the most sacred of religious holidays. For children, it marks the coming of the Easter bunny. For the non-religious, it signals the unofficial start of spring. I celebrate it for all of these reasons, and more---like for the food! Most people do not consider Easter a big "food holiday" like say, Thanksgiving or Christmas, but for me, it includes some of my favorite food traditions.

In my family we always began the Easter holiday by coloring eggs. Later, my Italian grandmother would knead together a batch of sweet, bread-like dough and form little handled baskets around each egg. She'd brush them with an egg wash, and after they were baked, each colorful egg would be nestled in a shiny, golden, edible basket. We did not eat these treats until Easter morning, when they would be the centerpiece of the breakfast table. I do not fancy myself as much of a baker, and admit that I have not attempted these on my own. However, this year I plan to hunt down a recipe and give it my best shot (unfortunately, hers has been lost....or perhaps was never written down). If your family makes these little treats, email me your recipe and I'll post it on this blog!

Although it has been many years since I've had one of my grandmother's egg baskets (sadly, she passed away in 1989), I have made a special point to keep up another one of her Eastertime food traditions--pizzachina. I later learned that what my family called "pizzachina", or "filled pizza" is more commonly known as "pizza rustica". I've been told that pizzachina and pizza rustica are actually two different dishes, but for reasons I do not know, my family called this specific type of Easter pie "pizzachina", and therefore, so do I. Our pizzachina is a savory pie of ricotta cheese, mozzarella cheese, eggs, and prosciutto, baked into a flaky crust. My grandmother baked her pizzachina in a large, rectangular baking pan, as we were always quite a crowd during the holidays. I make a smaller version in a 9-inch round cake pan.

Like the recipe for the egg baskets, I never got my grandmother's recipe for pizzachina. But taste-memory is powerful, and after trying several different versions while in my 20s, I finally found one that tasted most like the pizzachina of my childhood. Nick Malgeri, renowned baker, teacher, and author, includes a recipe for pizza rustica in book How To Bake which, after some modifications, is the closest I've come to replicating my grandmother's recipe. Now that I think of it, Nick was actually the person who told me pizzachina and pizza rustica are two entirely different dishes (I had the good fortune to take a recipe writing class from him a number of years back). I guess he would know, but at the same time, really, what's the difference? Family tradition is more important than accuracy!

Pizzachina is meant to be sliced into pieces and eaten at room temperature. We always serve it alongside our colored eggs, hot-cross buns, and fruit salad on Easter morning, It is definitely not diet food, and is rich and dense, so just a small slice will be quite filling. I guess this is part of the reason I only make it once a year!

Pizzachina

(Based on and adapted from an original recipe for Pizza Rustica by Nick Malgieri)

Serves 8-10

The dough in Nick Malgieri's recipe is slightly sweet, which balances nicely against the rich cheeses and salty prosciutto. My grandmother's dough did not include any sugar, but (shhh!) I actually like this version a bit better. The filling is as close a match as I can muster to Grandma's.

For the crust:

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 t salt

1/2 t baking powder

6 T cold, unsalted butter (cut into 1 T pieces)

1 egg plus one egg white

For the filling:

1 lb ricotta cheese (whole milk is best)

3 eggs

1/4 c grated Pecorino Romano cheese

8 oz mozzarella cheese, grated

1/4- 1/2 lb prosciutto, shredded

1/4 c flat leaf parsley

Egg wash: 1 egg, beaten with 1 t wate

1- 9 inch round cake pan

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees, and put the rack in the middle position.

First make the dough by combining the dry ingredients in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Pulse to mix. Toss the butter pieces around the bowl and pulse until a powdery consistency is reached. Add egg/egg white and continue to pulse until dough forms a ball on the blade. Remove dough and divide into two pieces (1/3 and 2/3 of dough). Press into separate discs, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate.

To make the filling, place the ricotta into the work bowl of the food processor and pulse until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, add eggs, and stir in remaining ingredients, one at a time. Set adide.

Roll the larger of the chilled dough discs into a large, 12 inch circle (like a pie crust), to about 1/4 inch thick. Lay in the bottom of the baking pan and gently press to form to the sides (you will have some overhang). Pour the filling inside the crust.

Roll out the remaining 1/3 crust and cut into long strips. Form a lattice pattern over the pie, pressing the ends into the edge of the bottom crust. Fold over the edges, forming a thicker edge, and press to seal.

Bake about 45 minutes until the filling is set and the crust is golden and baked through. Cool on a rack.

Gently unmold by inverting onto a platter. Serve at room temperature. Keep refrigerated after the first day of baking.

Farmers Markets--Not Just for Summer!

Growing up, I remember waiting each summer for the fresh corn to arrive at the local farm stand. My father was insistent that corn from the grocery store was sub-par, and he only bought from one particular farm stand which he felt had the best corn. "Butter and Sugar" was the variety we favored----and the farms in Schoharie County did it best. The season was limited, so we literally ate corn with dinner at least 4 times per week...it was that good.

Everything at the farm stand seemed to just taste better. I have a vivid memory of the best strawberry I ever ate, purchased at a farm stand. Small and bright red, it was pure sweetness. I also remember the first time I ate a tomato fresh off the vine---- not even in the same hemisphere of taste as the tasteless mush sold in the grocery stores. Needless to say, I developed a affinity for farm stands, farmers markets, and the local farmers who devote their lives to producing food.

Living in coastal Connecticut, the farm stands aren't part of the scenery like they were in the rural upstate New York of my childhood. However, particularly in recent years, farmers markets have become more prevalent in this area. In 2006, the folks at Wholesome Wave (spearheaded by Michel Nischan,chef at The Dressing Room Restaurant) began the very popular Westport Farmers Market on Thursdays and Sundays during the summer and fall growing season. This year, the market expanded to include a Winter Market, which is held Saturdays at the Fairfield Theatre Company. "A farmers market in winter?" you ask. You may not find berries and tomatoes, but you will still leave with a armful of goodness.

On a recent Saturday, I was able to buy potatoes from Riverbank Farm of Oxford, organic salad greens from Starlight Gardens of Durham, organic fresh herbs from Two Guys From Woodbridge (even though their farm is in Hamden), and honey from Andrew's Local Honey of Norwalk. An added incentive was that John Barricelli of SoNo Bakery was there selling his fantastic breads and pastries, saving me the trip to South Norwalk. They also have a person selling teas, artisinal cheeses, and fresh seafood. You may not find the same bounty available during the main growing season, you definitely can buy everything you need for a very nice dinner party.

As spring approaches, all the farmers will begin sowing their seeds for the summer and fall harvest, and we can look forward to plentiful farmers markets beginning in early June.

Winter Market Rosemary Potatoes

Serves 6

This recipe comes from my friend Elena, who lives in Italy. I lived with Elena while studying in Siena and she made these delicious pototoes one of the first nights I was there. You can get everything you need to make these potatoes at the Winter Market.

3 lbs potatoes, peeled and cut into ¾ inch cubes

3-4 Tablespoons olive oil

3 sprigs (or 2 Tablespoons) fresh rosemary, minced

2-3 cloves garlic, minced

salt and pepper

9x13 baking dish

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Place all ingredients in baking dish and toss to combine (be sure the potatoes are completely coated with oil).
Bake for 45 minutes, or until potatoes are fork-tender.

Serve hot.

Area Farmers Market Info

Winter Market, Fairfield Theatre Company, 70 Sanford Street. Saturdays January- April, 10am-1pm. Go to http://www.westportfarmersmarket.com/ for vendor list.

Westport Farmers Market, Westport Country Playhouse, 20 Powers Court, Westport, Thursdays, June-November (Sunday market to be determined). Go to http://www.westportfarmersmarket.com/ for updated info.

Greenfield Hill Farmers Market, 1950 Bronson Road, Fairfield, Saturdays, June-October, 12:30pm-4pm. Call Trish at 259-8786 (Greenfield Hill Liquors) for more info.

Great Websites About "Eating Local" and Local Farmers Markets

http://www.cityseed.org/ (New Haven based organization -- local farmers markets)

http://www.localharvest.org/ (Find farmers markets in any area)

http://www.buyctgrown.com/ (Lots of fantastic info)

Farmers Market photo by Bernard Mattus, my father-in-law.

Banana Quick Bread--Afterthought No More!

Necessity is the mother of invention. I'm guessing that is how the concept for banana bread came about. Let's face it, no one goes to the store to buy bananas with the intention of using them for a quick-bread or muffin. Most people who bake at all, bake banana bread only when they don't know what to do with a few overripe bananas which have been sitting on their counter for several days.

In my case, this seems to happen more often than it should. My kids love the idea of buying fresh bananas in the store, but then never want to eat them once at home. Today, I found myself with two very brown bananas and an hour of time, so naturally, I decided to make some banana bread. Usually, I'll make a few mini-loaves to stash in my freezer, for those occasions where you need to bring a little something to someone, or when a friend pops over for an unexpected visit. However, today, I was more in the mood for muffins, and I decided to put a little twist on my very favorite banana bread recipe from The Joy of Cooking. My idea was to add some additional fiber with whole wheat flour, cut down on the calories by using Spenda instead of sugar, increase moisture with some milk, and give them a little more bulk by adding old-fashioned oats. The result was a big, fluffy, beautiful muffin, which tasted every bit as good as it looked.

The next time you go to the store, buy a few extra bananas and try this recipe. Banana bread doesn't have to be an afterthought!

Banana-Oatmeal Muffins

Makes 6 big or 12 small muffins

2/3 cup whole wheat flour

2/3 cup white, all-purpose flour (unbleached)

3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/3 cup unsalted butter (5 1/3 T), at room temperature

2/3 cup sugar or Splenda for Baking

2 eggs
1 cup mashed, overripe bananas
1/2 cup old-fashioned oats

1/3 cup skim milk

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and line muffin tins with paper liners.

In a small bowl, combine flours, salt, baking soda and baking powder. Set aside.

In a larger bowl, combine butter and sugar (or Splenda) until light and fluffy.

Beat in flour mixture until just incorporated.

Add eggs and milk and beat to combine.

Gently fold in mashed bananas and oats.

Divide batter evenly into muffin tins and bake 30 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean.

Store on the countertop on the day muffins are baked, or place in an airtight container for longer storage. Muffins may be frozen for up to 2 months.

Restaurants: Fraiche, Fairfield, CT

UPDATE: Please note that as of April 2009, Fraiche Restaurant is closed.

The Fairfield restaurant scene has always been reliably good, if not always exciting. However, in recent years, several newer restaurants have received quite a bit of attention. Many of these buzz-worthy eateries were almost destined to succeed. Hotspots like Pepe’s Pizza, Barcelona, and The Beach Café already cracked the code to success in other Connecticut towns before hitting Fairfield. Other newcomers including Osianna and Café 4 Quattro became instantly popular thanks to the huge following developed by their winning sister restaurant, Quattro Pazzi.

Fraiche (pronounced “fresh”), is the newest eatery sure to become a new favorite among Fairfielders. While the modern, American restaurant is the first solo-venture for Chef Marc Lippman, it definitely has the recipe for success: great location, fantastic ambiance, an exciting menu, and an experienced chef.

Located at 75 Hillside Road in Greenfield Hill (the former site of La Colline Verte ), Fraiche is dressed to impress. Brooklyn-based design firm, John Loecke Inc., completely transformed the space In order to give an “urban farmhouse” feel to the interior. Rustic furniture and modern accents adorn the two dining rooms, which feature stone walls and birch-patterned wall coverings. The tables, which were handmade in the Catskill Mountains, are created from reclaimed barn wood, and farmhouse-inspired wire chandeliers line the ceiling. The chocolate brown and smoky blue palate give the entire space an updated, contemporary feel, and create a cozy setting in which to sample Lippman’s modern-American fare.

The menu is described as “market driven”, and therefore will change seasonally. To coincide with the opening, Lippman has designed an eclectic, fall-themed menu with signature dishes like Fresh Maine Scallops with Black Truffles and Sunchoke Puree, and Free-Range Axis Venison Loin with Quince Jam and Butternut Squash-Brussels Sprout Hash with Smoked Bacon. If that sounds too fancy for you, have no fear….the menu also includes a 100% Kobe Beef Cheeseburger with Fries, Heirloom Chicken with Potatoes and Roasted Root Vegetables, and a Prime New York Strip Steak with Mashed Potatoes as well. “I really wanted to balance out ‘casual-elegance’,” states Lippman. He adds that his hope is that Fraiche becomes a true “neighborhood restaurant” where people can simply drop in for a burger with their kids (there will be a children’s menu too), but will also want to return for that special occasion meal.

Lippman’s culinary career has taken him all over the world. After graduating from La Varenne Ecole De Cuisine in France, he worked at top restaurants in Paris, New York and Miami. Later, after serving nearly three years as the as Executive Chef at one of Mexico’s most luxurious five-star resorts, Lippman’s wife and PR manager, Karen, gave birth to their first child. This prompted a move back to the States, and after landing the position of Executive Chef at the popular seafood restaurant, Ocean Drive, in South Norwalk, Lippman and his family decided to settle in Connecticut.

Four years and another child later, Lippman decided it was time to break out on his own. “It was really a family-motivated decision,” he states. Wanting to be closer to home in order to spend more quality time with his wife and children, he searched for the perfect space for over a year. “I was looking mainly in the Fairfield/Westport area, and when I came upon this location, I really could see beyond the space,” he states. “It was definitely the best location for me.”

As Fairfield becomes more of an eating-destination than ever before, Fraiche is a welcome addition to the many new and exciting restaurants to open their doors this year. Early indications are that Marc Lippman’s inspired, seasonal menu will entice Fairfielders back again and again.

Fraiche is located at 75 Hillside Road in Fairfield and is open for dinner only, beginning at 5:30pm, Tuesday-Saturday. Appetizers range from $9 - $18, entrees from $16 - $36, and desserts are $9. For reservations, please call 203.256.5744.

Check out the New York Times review of Fraiche, which appeared on February 17, 2008.

Photos courtesy of Fraiche Restaurant.

The Perfect Pantry...and Pasta Dish

When my husband and I first got married, we lived in what I thought was a gem of a one-bedroom New York City apartment. Why was it so special? It had a fully-operational kitchen! It was was a small, galley style arrangement, but had all the requisite appliances, and even a dishwasher. Perhaps "requisite" is not an accurate description; one apartment we went to see had nothing more than a bar-sized sink, a microwave, a mini-fridge, and a two burner stovetop, which was also considered a kitchen in New York real estate terms. I'd been in hotels better equipped to cook a meal!

Needless to say, in those early years, as much as I loved our apartment, I didn't have room for an actual pantry. Not that I needed one, since in a pedestrian city such as New York, you only could shop for as much food as you could carry. There was no "stocking up" when Progresso soup was on sale! When we later moved to a bigger (but still not-so-large) condominium in Connecticut, and had access to super-supermarkets (and a car), I gained a new appreciation for a pantry. I could stock six types of pasta at any time! Beans? I'll take three each of garbonzo, cannellini, AND red kidney! I couldn't go too crazy, since my space was still limited, but I did learn to keep key items on hand.

When we finally bought an actual house, I was disappointed to find that the pantry in my new abode was not much larger than what I had in my condo. What's a cook to do? I did what any food-obsessed person would do...I converted my coat closet (which happened to be adjacent to the kitchen) into a large, glorious pantry! I bought wire baker's racks, hooks, and storage baskets and bins, and then headed right to the store to load up on my favorite pantry items. I wanted to keep back-ups of necessary items (olive oil, salt, pepper, vinegar), plus enough other dried/unperishable goods to whip up something delicious at a moment's notice. And don't forget, your refrigerator and freezer are definitely an extension of your dry pantry.

If you are among the fortunate who have a pantry (or are willing to forgo a coat closet), here is a list of what I try to keep in my pantry at all times:

Dry pantry: pasta (a variety of shapes/sizes), rice, cous cous, canned beans (a variety of types), tomato paste/canned diced tomatoes, sundried tomatoes, marinated artichokes, dried fruit (raisins, dried cranberries), olive oil/canola oil/vegetable oil, vinegar (balsamic, red wine, white and specialty flavors), onions, garlic, dried herbs/spices (especially rosemary, oregano, red pepper flakes, cinnamon, cumin, and nutmeg)

Refrigerator: milk, eggs, butter, cheese (cheddar, parmesan, and feta), nuts (pine nuts, walnuts, almonds), mustard (dijon), ketchup, mayo, fresh parsley, lemon

Freezer: peas, spinach, frozen garlic, pancetta/bacon, bread

Pantry Pasta with Artichokes

Serves 4

This dish is reminiscent of "pasta carbonara", but adds artichokes in place of pancetta. With a well-stocked pantry, you won't even need to make a trip to the market!

1 onion, chopped

1 - 12 oz jar marinated artichokes, drained and roughly chopped

2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 eggs
Parmesan cheese

Salt and pepper

1 lb fettuccini, cooked according to package directions

1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped

Heat olive oil in a large pan and sauté onions until browned.

Add the chopped artichokes (not the liquid from the jar), salt & pepper and cover.

Cook over low heat for about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, beat the eggs together with about 1-2 T of parmesan cheese and a good pinch of salt.

Toss the hot pasta with the egg mixture until it is thoroughly coated and top with the artichoke mixture. Gently toss to combine.

Serve immediately with additional grated cheese if desired.

The Simplicity of Soup

Nothing is better on a cold winter day than a nice bowl of hot soup. Whether it is from a can (I love Progresso Lentil), a box (Trader Joe's Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato is terrific), or from a packet (okay, maybe skip that one), soup makes the perfect lunch, a great starter at dinnertime, or even a nourishing snack. However, what a lot of people don't realize is just how simple it is to make delicious, homemade soup from scratch. With the help of a few shortcuts, you can whip up a steaming pot of soup in literally minutes.

"Souper Simple Soups" is one of the most popular classes I teach, and with good reason. In under two hours, we make four fantastic soups which are easy to replicate at home. One soup, Tortellini in Brodo with Spinach, is so simple that I almost axed it from the menu in the weeks preceeding the first class. My mother encouraged me to keep it in the line-up (it is one of her favorites), but I was concerned the recipe wasn't substantial enough for a class. Much to my surprise, it turned out to be the hands-down favorite of all my students. Yes, mom, as usual, you were right. ;)

The first time I had Tortellini in Brodo (tortellini in broth) was in Italy. I quickly discovered that this is a staple in nearly every Italian restaurant, akin to our Chicken Noodle. It is exactly what it sounds like; tortellini in broth. Simple. Unadorned. Classicly Italian. To add a bit more nutritional value, I like to add fresh spinach leaves right at the end of cooking, which also gives it fantastic color. You could use fresh parsley or basil instead, but I just love the way the spinach looks and tastes in this dish. The best part is that the entire soup is finished in only the amount of time it takes for the tortellini to cook! So get cooking! Winter is the perfect time for soup!

NOTE: As a special event, I'll be teaching a free, one-hour soups class at Williams-Sonoma in Westport, CT on Sunday, February 17 from 10-11am. Call the store at 221-8667 to register.

Tortellini in Brodo with Spinach

Serves 4

6 cups good quality canned chicken broth

½ lb dried cheese tortellini (or your favorite variety)

6 oz baby spinach, washed
Grated parmesan cheese

Heat broth in a medium saucepan until boiling.

Add tortellini, and cook until tender.

Add spinach, stir to allow it to wilt, and serve with grated parmesan cheese.